The MORNING AFTER. pILL

i am irritated. at the UK's full frontal attack on safe sex. Why do so many teenage girls have babies and waste their lives away when they could and should be in high school getting an education. Yes there are many reasons for this phenomenon and i could easily list a few but one which i feel contributes extensively to the problem is the astronomically huge cost which UK Health Authorities have placed on contraceptives. When the morning after pill costs £25 and a pack of three condoms costs £6 then we can safely segregate the well heeled from those without. As a result, England's got the highest teenage pregnancy rate in the whole of Europe. 'One in every baby born in England is to a teenage mum', says the NHS website.
Pathetic.

Wake up NHS, unless you redirect your attack on safe sex and launch it instead at reducing the cost of contraceptives, this problem's not going to disappear.

Thorpe Park 12/08/06

GEOGRAPHY FOR GIANTS

TRAVEL: LIMPOPO, SOUTH AFRICA

‘One more thing, the Samango Monkeys are very friendly. You may want to keep your windows and doors closed If you're not in the mood for visitors.” Mike Gardner, Tourism Expert, Limpopo

By Amiena Hanief

Lush valleys and meandering rivers where samango monkeys keep watch over hippos and crocodiles, where myth and fact are bedfellows. This is Limpopo, land of mist and mystery, and this is where giants live.

One such giant is quirky founder of his own religious sect, diminutive sculptor Jackson Hlungwane

A visit to his place in Mbhokota, a village located in Elim in northern Gazankulu, finds him comfortably ensconced on his throne, a rusty steel chair and holding court in New Jerusalem. Labyrinthine styled New Jerusalem is his stone palace to the Glory of God. It is the place of worship Jackson and his followers built. Here he lives, creates and preaches his own religion, Jerusalem One Christ, a form of mystical Christianity firmly rooted in African culture.

He's wholly engrossed in a book depicting religious icons. A bit of an oddity, he crackles, pointing out different saints. It is clear that he's been through it a number of times already and is particularly impressed with the fact that some saints seem to be missing a finger. "See, see no finger. Just like Jackson". Its proof enough for him that he's a saint too.

An oddball, mischievous saint though. His advice "Go home now, You must make a baby. You will have twelve". 12 for the twelve disciples? What a thought.

Jackson forms part of the South Africa's big 5. No, not wildlife, though you could be forgiven for the mistake as Jackson is as wild and free as a monkey. Big 5 as in the case of a group of 5 world-renowned artists who all hail from Limpopo. His sculptures, much acclaimed, grace South African and European art galleries. He says 'The whole country is Jackson" an ideology which is carried through in his art depicting Christianity through all of Africa.

Giant of another sort, The Sunland 'Big Baobab in Modjadjiskloof is the oldest and quite likely the largest living thing in the world.

Anna Mahasha, head cook who is on hand for visitor ‘liaison" at Sunland Baobab Jungalows informs groups that the tree is more than 5000 years old, is 47m's wide and 22 metres high. In a word, massive.

There is a surreal sense of wonder and reverence about it. Fantasy novel 'The Belgarath Series' speaks of the One Tree, ancient meeting place of the Gods. Surely this must be the tree of author David Edding's inspiration. It seems as old as time itself.

A quick calculation: it is possibly older than the Giza Pyramids and was certainly here thousands of years before the birth of Jesus Christ. When the first leaves sprouted the Sahara Desert was still lush and green and our Iron Age ancestors were roaming the land. With things put into perspective, the miracle of the tree is even more astounding.

In 1993 the owners, Doug and Heather van Heerden cleared out the hollow centre of the tree and installed a railway sleeper pub inside the trunk which has space for nearly 60 people. At a sqeeze.

"The pub is not allowed to trade", says Anna, "we're waiting on the go ahead from the authorities. So now you can’t experience the whole thing. Hey, it's a pity". You're right Anna, it is a pity.

Almost as old as the baobab, and just as spellbinding is the reign of Modjadji, the Rain Queen
Late Queen Makobo Modjadji VI who died in June 2005 is a direct descendant of the first rain queen, Dzugundini, who’s father the King of Monomotapa gave her a magic horn with the necessary 'medicines' to make rain and to defend her against any enemies.

Her dominion is a fascinating world of cultures and legends and encompasses an entire district named in her honour.

This honour extends to the special place of respect she has always held amongst African leaders including the great Zulu king Shaka and Nelson Mandela.

The royal house of Modjaji is located on top of lush hills and is surrounded by the Modjadji Cycad Reserve where the world's largest cycad trees, reaching up to 13 meters in height grow in profusion under an unbelievable mist and rain belt.

James Ndhlovu, a local cultural expert explains, "There are many, many mysteries and legends about these cycads. Also, they are protected by Queen Modjadji and they are sacred for the Bolobedu people." Even in the midday African heat, the forests have an evocative atmosphere.

True giants dating back almost 300 million years, the Modjadji Palm is the most famous of all the cycads.

Limpopo, land of legend, mystery, myth and miracle is rich in culture and abundantly populated with innumerable giants who's presence has you yearning for more.

For more information on:
Limpopo - GoLimpopo: 0860 730 730 /www.golimpopo.com

Jackson Hlungwane - Mukundeni Arts & Crafts: 011 708 2116/ www.mukondeni.com/html/Jackson%20Hlungwani.htm

Sunland Big Baobab- Tree Sunland Big Baoba: 015 309 9039/ www.baobab.fhi.co.za

Modjadji Rain Queen: James Ndhlovu local cultural expert: 015 2764807 www.earthfoot.org/lit_zone/modjadji.htm

Modjadji Cycad Reserve - James Ndhlovu local cultural expert: 015 2764807/ www.sa-venues.com/game-reserves/np_modjadji.htm

Blah Blah Blah, April 2006

Chilling at Blah Blah Blah after SAT Travel Writing School Graduation

THE ONE TREE

TRAVEL: LIMPOPO, SOUTH AFRICA


“I tell you this baobab is very old. Some people say 5000 years, others say 6000 years old. Either way, it’s older than anything else that’s living on earth. It’s not normal. Do you know of any other tree that’s so old?” Anna Mashasha

By Amiena Hanief

No Anna, can’t say I do. And I rather doubt that anyone else does either. Anna Mashasha is the cook at Sunland’s, the farm in Modjadjiskoof, Limpopo on which the baobab stands. She’s worked there for 25 years and is accustomed to having the awestruck bombard her with questions about the tree. Every year thousands of visitors pop by the farm to stand wrapt and amazed, marvelling at what has got to be one of the most amazing miracles of nature, the Sunland Big Baobab.

This baobab is internationally famous for being the widest of its species in the world and at 22 metres high and 47 meters in circumference it qualifies as one of the all time largest living things in the world. In addition to this, it is also the OLDEST living thing in the world today. Carbon dating has it as + 6 000 years old.

To really understand what this means, try imagining this. It is possibly older than the Giza Pyramids and it was certainly here thousands of years before the birth of Christ. When its first leaves were sprouting the Sahara Desert was still lush and green and our Iron Age ancestors were roaming the land.

Once put into perspective, the baobab is even more phenomenal than at first glance. And though the baobab’s fame is internationally acknowledged, nothing adequately prepares visitors for their first sighting of it. Anna recalls that “…some people cry. They don’t know what to do, they just cry”.

When baobabs become a thousand years old, they begin to hollow inside. In the Big Baobab this has resulted in a large cavern, in which the owners, Doug and Heather van Eerden, built a Bar and Wine Cellar. The tree bar can accommodate more than 60 people. Must be a group of 60 very emaciated people but there you are all the same! Now whether a wonder like the Sunland ‘Big Baobab’ should have been turned into a bar is questionable. What I’m trying to impress upon you is the sheer size of its hollow chamber.

The Baobab has been associated with many myths, mysteries and folklore. And it’s not hard to see why. The mind takes flights of fancy and fantasy beneath its shade. Immediately David Edding’s book The Belgarath Series comes to mind. It speaks of a lush green vale in which a tree older than time itself blossoms. Its branches stretch far and wide, its bark, knarled and warm to the touch. And it is this tree which throughout the millenniums has been the meeting place of the Gods. Could it be that David Edding’s inspiration was drawn from our Baobab?

The Bushmen believed that the Baobab had offended God and, in revenge, God planted it upside down. Certainly, when winter comes, the Baobab resembles a mass of roots pointing towards the sky instead of being underground. Even the flowers bloom at night. Well from the looks of things, this Baobab doesn’t seem to mind divine wrath one little bit and instead seems to be a timeless testimony of divine touch.

As for folklore, the Bushmen believed that any person who plucks the flowers will be torn apart by lions, because there are spirits in the flowers. Spirits? James Ndhlovu, a local cultural expert agrees and adds that “…they’re pretty potent. You should try the beer they make from the bark! For that you need a really good strong stomach”. The Bushman also say that water drunk, in which the Baobab’s pips have been soaked, serves as protection from crocodiles. And while this may very well be true, I’m not prepared to put it to the test.

The Baobab as a symbol of Africa has a special role in this fascinating continent. Elephants, monkeys and baboons depend on its fruit (the vitamin C content of one fruit is the equivalent of 4 oranges); bats pollinate them by crashing into the flowers while chasing insects and bush babies also spread the pollen which can be used as glue.

At one time it was believed that Baobabs were in danger of becoming extinct. But our One Tree continues to thrive and if it’s legacy of 6 000 years is anything to go by, it will still be standing tall for millenniums to come.

For more information on:

Sunland Big Baobab Tree - Sunland Big Baoba: 015 309 9039/ www.baobab.fhi.co.za

Limpopo - GoLimpopo: 0860 730 730/ www.golimpopo.com

Modjadjiskloof - James Nldlovu Cultural expert: 015 2764807

BO-KAAP, CAPE TOWN - Rabannas & Bredies

TRAVEL: BO KAAP - CAPE TOWN, SOUTH AFRICA


“So you’ve finally come to see the rhatib. I told you there’s more to Bo-Kaap than kufiyya’d (fez) crooning Malay Choirs” Gheirunisa Petersen, Bo-Kaap- Cape Town

By Amiena Hanief

Cloaked in a long flowing robe known as an abayya, I hurriedly slip into the heated room of a house right at the very top of steep Shortmarket Street in Bo-Kaap, the Cape Malay Quarters in Cape Town.

My essence mingles with incense. Thick golden air as light as a whisper, as rich as a treasure brushes against my face, filling and intoxicating me. Unobtrusively as possible, though not without stepping on some toes and mumbling apologies, I make my way to the back of the room to sit against the wall with a handful of other women. The old aunties frown disapprovingly and hush me, motioning for me to sit down and be quiet. They’re all transfixed by the heady call of the drums. Next to me Ayesha Kamaldien, a Bo-Kaap local squeezes my hand and breathes excitedly “Feel my pulse. It’s pumping in tune to the beat of the rabannas (drums).” The women, their eyes half closed, sway to the longing rhythm of the rabannas. Lost in motion

Before us by turns, young boys, old fragile-seeming men and those in their prime give answer to their souls. Their eyes inwardly focussed, their lives held in safekeeping by faith, the hoarse singing voices and knowing hands of the drummers. The rabannas heated by braziers to soften their call, reverberate, evoking the same responses they did thousands of years ago. Males whirl and step to innate rhythms in a clearing fenced by circles within circles of men. Razor sharp sword blades gleam in the lamplight as they lift them above their heads and let them fall to their outstretched arms, necks and abdomen again and again. Their dance is achingly beautiful. Movements flow freely, the expressions on their faces radiant… as if they are within the presence of Light and filled with it. The swords continue their deathly ballet and pierce, sweep and slice. Yet there is no blood, no pain, only joy and light, a complete exultation in faith which surpasses all earthly holds.

This is the rhatib, a moving meditation practised by the Cape Malay to deepen their understanding of the sacred and mystical forces of life.

Yunus Davids, the rhatib imam (leader), lifts his kufiyya (fez) and wipes the perspiration from his round brown face with a huge white handkerchief. “Seeking sacredness takes a lot of energy and concentration but leaves you feeling so light” he sighs, softly exhausted.

After what feels like an hour but which in fact turns out to be five, it is 2am, the rhatib has wound down and we’re feasting on a succulent savoury chicken bredie (stew) and the best samoosas I’ve ever had from a take-aways down the road in Wale Street, Bismillah Café.

Boeta Yunus, dreamily lays his finger against the blade of a sword only to swiftly retract it. The blade is razor sharp and he has nicked himself.

He explains that “…rhatib was brought to the Cape in the 17th century by Sheikh Yusuf of Macassar in Malaysia. He was a prince, a freedom fighter and the leader of a Sufi Order. The British considered him a threat to their reign, so they exiled him to Robben Island”.

The Cape Malay people of the Western Cape are the direct descendants of political exiles imported from Malaysia, Indonesia, Java and Batavia as slaves by Dutch settlers who colonized the Western Cape.

Almost four hundred years later, they’re a free people whose cultures and traditions are deeply imbedded in South Africa’s fabric. Instrumental in the development of the Cape culture, architecture and the Afrikaans language, they also had a large and lasting influence on South African cooking with the introduction of bredies (stews), boboties (a spicy minced meat dish covered with savoury egg custard) and koeksisters (plaited doughnuts dipped in syrup).

Bo-Kaap, with its secret lanes and brightly colourful stoep-fronts is a reflection of the sweet, loud people who long ago converted its narrow steep streets from a place of slave oppression to one proudly bursting with life and colour.

A close knit community where everyone knows each other’s lives, they’re well meaning, caring folk. In many instances the adage: it takes a community to raise a child, still holds true here. Here children run and laugh freely in and out of neighbour’s homes.

Best of all, they’re a sharing community, always ready to burst forth into Hollandse lietjies (ribald Cape Dutch songs dating back to the days of slavery) and eagerly welcome visitors to experience their world and unique culture.

For more information, visit:
Bo- Kaap - www.bokaap.co.za

Cape Town Routes Unlimited - www.tourismcapetown.co.za

South Africa Online Travel Guide - www.southafrica-travel.net